Category Archives: Lynne Mayhew

A Mother’s Day Tribute

LynneMy favorite writer – and oh yes, my childhood sweetheart, and wife of 48 years, and mother of our two children – has just publishedTo the Mothers of the World ~ I Pay You Tribute” on her web site. She honors the mothers of the world. Regardless of differences in language or culture, a mother’s love for her children, regardless of their age, is universal. Thank God.

Women to women
Worlds Apart
We are the same but different

Different culture
Different religion
Different education
Different language

But the same within
Same search for justice
Same search for dignity
Same belief in family values
Same journey to personal fulfillment

Be sure to check out On the Go With Lynne for more great (though I am definitely prejudice) travel writing.

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Sambusi’s Two Tables by Lynne Mayhew

Stone Town, Zanzibar

 

Zanzibar is an island recognized for growing and exporting African spices. With its mysterious alley ways, known for their ornately carved doors, Birka-clad women move silently through the streets while loud speakers call faithful Muslims to prayer. An array of exotic and exciting food tempts the foreign traveler in selecting and savoring the island’s exotic cuisine.

It is evening and Paula has made reservation’s for us to eat at Sambusi’s Two Tables,  located in a private home .We have the address and decide to walk from our hotel, the Dhow Palace, in historic Stone Town. It is dark and we are walking single file along the semi-lit street hardly wide enough for two cars.  Huge arched doorways cast shadows into the street creating a somewhat ominous atmosphere. This reminds me of the honeymoon couple from Norway I met today who told me they were robbed of their money, passports, everything, while at the beach yesterday. Standing on a corner, we check the address and turn toward a residential section. Paula and I comment on the absence of traffic and people. Robert and Ron pause, look around for signs, house numbers, anything, and decide on a route. We are now cutting through yards and wishing we took a cab like the hotel desk clerk recommended we do, but stumble on the correct house only to find the entrance is hidden around the back, something the owner failed to mention. We knock on the door and after a couple of minutes are greeted by a teenager who asks us to come in and leave our shoes inside the door. This we do, and are led upstairs to the living room where a woman is watching TV. She barely smiles, indifferently nods to us while the son leads us on to the enclosed porch with two tables. We are the only ones here this evening, we are told.

It is a long narrow room with jalousie windows overlooking the deserted, dark street. Void of any decorations or pictures on the pale green walls, a ceiling fan hums on low speed, enough to drown out the TV.  Each table has six chairs, a clear plastic tablecloth like our grandmother’s once used, paper napkins and cutlery.

Our host, the father of the house, introduces himself as Salim by saying that he and his wife, Hidaya, prepare the food themselves. He appears in traditional Muslim attire, long shirt over baggy pants, shoeless but wearing a white lace prayer cap. Knowing we would be in a Muslim home, Paula and I were appropriately attired in skirts and shirts with sleeves, our husbands in long pants.  Courteously, in broken English, our host explains there is no menu and we would be served a course at a time. The guide book didn’t mention any of this, but the four of us are always open to adventure and something unique. We are brought bowls with warm water to wash our hands  and warm towels to dry them. He now brings us chapattis to nibble on and fruit drinks made from tamarind. Next, we are brought small bowls of pumpkin soup made with coconut milk and a touch of allspice. We food snobs give this the thumbs up. When Ron asks for more, our host politely reminds him that he must save room for the other dishes. One by one, the courses come, seasoned perfectly with spices grown on the island and prepared with skill and knowledge of age old Persian/Indian/African recipes. The curried chicken and baked fish were excellent.

This, we decide is the way to enjoy a meal. After two hours, we are finished, rewash our hands and get a bill which in American terms is $20.00 a couple. We thank our host, shake hands, find our shoes and announce we don’t have a clue how to get back to our hotel.

He makes a few gestures as to you walk here, turn there, so forth and so forth and we ask him to please call us a cab. Instead, he offers his teenage son to escort us back through the yard and the unlit streets. He takes us a different way, darker and lonelier then the way we thought we knew. We find our steps quickening through the maze of alley ways until we are in the light of our hotel. We bid him goodbye and a thank you with gratitude and relief. Robert offers a tip and he accepts.

Sambusi’s Two Tables. Zanzibar.  Another culinary experience.

Great images of Zanzibar.

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An Artist’s Palette ~ Laos by Lynne Mayhew

We awaken at dawn to the sound of a distant gong. The air is crisp and misty with fog.  From the balcony, we watch as processions of Buddhist monks leave their monasteries and walk through the streets collecting alms from the local people. It is ethereal and surreal to the foreign traveler. To the townspeople of Luang Prabang, Laos, the act of alms giving is a daily ritual that connects the average individual to a spiritually developed person, a Buddhist monk.  It is a symbolic connection. Each is showing respect and humbleness for the other. It is not charity, as one would think.

As the Buddha has stated:

“Householders, the homeless  and  monastics
in mutual dependence
both reach the true Dharma….”

There are Buddhists who are animists. They believe in offering alms on behalf of their deceased ancestors, that they are showing respect to them and the monk is the intermediary in which to do so. We are told that by giving food to the monk, they are feeding their dead loved ones.

Across the street from us are women in their outdoor kitchens who have prepared sticky rice. They sell it by the basket to others who want to participate in this tradition.  This is what is put into the alms bowls as the monks walk by silently. Except for the occasional dog barking or rooster crowing all is quiet and reverent. Men may stand to face a monk, but women must be seated or kneeling to offer their alms. All have their shoes off.

The monks walk barefooted and are wearing the traditional robe that dates 25 centuries ago. The first monks wore robes made from rags as did holy men from India. Later Buddha taught the monks to wear “pure” cloth, which was cloth that was ruined or discarded, cloth soiled from childbirth or scavenged from cremation grounds. This cloth was washed and boiled with vegetable matter- tubers, bark, leaves and spices such as turmeric or saffron giving the cloth a yellow-orange color. Robes today are in these colors as well as shades of curry, cumin and paprika.

Boys as young as ten can enter a monastery for religious training and general education. They too participate in the alms walk. They can remain and become monks or end their studies at any time. Many leave to work and to marry.

Luang Prabang is most known for its religious centeredness, surrounded by its many active Buddhist monasteries (Wats) and temples. The  Luang Prabang derives from a sacred Buddha image called the Pha Bang which was a gift from the mighty Khmer Empire in Cambodia, hence the name Luang Prabang. It is an ancient city located in north central Laos. Surrounded by mountains, it is on a peninsula between the Nam Khan and Mekong Rivers. Until the communist takeover in 1975, it was the royal capital and seat of government of the Kingdom of Laos.  It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995 and is considered by many to represent the heart of Laotian culture. Luang Prabang was made a WHS because it is a well preserved and outstanding example of the blend of traditional Laotian and French European  architecture. It is what drew us to this country, specifically this city.

Ron awakens particularly early one morning and follows a group of monks to a monastery at the end of our street. They are gathering together with numerous monks waiting for a special alms giving procession to begin. Dignitaries from the capital, Vientienne, as well as monks from that city have arrived to walk in this procession. All of Luang Prabang is out to participate or watch this huge and prestigious gathering. Tourists with cameras ready stand by to capture the moment.

Quite an experience for us to watch. We walk back to our small hotel, order breakfast, and sit at one of the three tables outside on the sidewalk. Life returns to normal as bicycle and moped traffic pick up. Off in the distance we hear gongs and in the building behind us, we notice monks gathering for a special house blessing. They are chanting. We are eating and we too feel blessed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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An Artist’s Palette ~ Cambodia (part 3) by Lynne Mayhew

Fishing Village

Fishing Village (click to enlarge)

In addition to temples, visitors have discovered the floating village of Chong Kneas located ten kilometers south of Siem Reap, Cambodia, on the Tonle Sap Lake. The van ride took us past numerous rice paddies with flimsy stilt houses lining both sides of the narrow road. One could not help notice or watch the constant ebb and flow of daily life in the fields, in the houses, under the houses and along the road. So much going on in a relatively small area. The poverty slaps one in the face.

Arriving at the docks, visitors purchase tickets and board boats to ride out to the floating village. Our guide explains that the village contains about a hundred families, mostly Vietnamese. Unwelcome in Cambodia, these people have created a way of living.  The village actually moves around according to the water levels of the lake and the season. It is a self contained floating village with residents engaged in fish farming (raising cat fish) as well as using traditional basket type traps. Men and women can be seen repairing or making fishing nets.  Chickens, hogs, and produce are also raised on these floating buildings. Each house has its covered front or back porch where most of the cooking and daily life takes place. Laundry is hung everywhere.  The village contains general stores, restaurants, and a school with a basketball court. The court is on the upper floor and is made with safety railings and a grille to keep the ball and the children from going overboard. Each family owns a small boat for navigating throughout the floating village to trade or buy from each other.

Child Size Boat

Child Size Boat (click to enlarge)

Children can be seen getting around themselves in anything that can float or be rowed. They are quite adept in showing the tourists the snakes they have, posing for a picture and then demanding a dollar. One of the floating buildings is used as an education center for visitors which have displays explaining the ecosystem, bird and fish life found on the Tonle Sap Lake. Aboard is a sample fish farm where the tourist can throw feed into the large opening on the first floor deck. There is also a crocodile farm below the deck which has at least ten large reptiles. They do not eat them, just show them to tourists. The eco center also has a nice gift shop, snack bar and small restaurant. On the upper floor one can get a better view of this incredible floating village, each house painted in bright colors, most of which are now faded or peeling. The TV antennas become noticeable and music can be heard from a café across the way.  Heading back to the docks, we pass a church and a temple, also part of this floating village.

Wanting $2 and settling for $1

Wanting $2 and settling for $1 (click to enlarge)

General Merchandise

General Merchandise (click to enlarge)

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An Artist’s Palette ~ Cambodia (part 2) by Lynne Mayhew

Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat (click to enlarge)

A traveler or a tourist does not go to Cambodia without visiting the ancient temples of Angkor, located near Siem Reap. This vast empire weaves throughout Indochina, but the royal roads lead to Angkor Wat, now a UN World Heritage Site. Built in the early part of the twelfth century by the ruler Suryavarman II, it is a Hindu temple or wat and is recognizable by its five towers which appear on Cambodia’s national flag. After years of civil war and trauma, the Khmer people once again look to these temples as a source of religious inspiration and pride. Angkor Wat is believed to be the largest religious structure in the world. While London had a population of 50,000 and was building cathedrals during this period, one million people lived in the Angkor kingdom during its height. ( read on….)

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An Artist’s Palette ~ Cambodia (part 1) by Lynne Mayhew

Cambodia Border Crossing

Cambodia Border Crossing - Visa Processing (click to enlarge)

We take the Hang Chau 2 speed boat from Chau Doc on the Mekong River to Phnom
Penn, a five hour trip which includes two border stops along the way. One is to exit
Vietnam and the other is to obtain our tourist visas to enter Cambodia. Both crossings are represented by shades of khaki and green, officers entrusted with the duty of checking passports and visas. I was wary that the stern officials at the Cambodian border would not process my visa since I did not have a separate photo of myself to turn in with my visa application. I stupidly left it in my suitcase stowed on the boat and not in my daypack. I was the last one to get a visa, much to my relief. Another hour by
boat and then, finally, Phnom Penn, capital of Cambodia comes into view with its blend
of old and new: remnants of stately French Colonial buildings in neo-classical style, traditional Khmer palaces and pagodas and added to this are western style skyscrapers competing for space in this growing and bustling city. The afternoon sun castes shadows over this jumble of architecture. As we arrive at the Sisowat pier, most noticeable is the stone-built embankment or esplanade along the waterfront, a city park along the Mekong. It looks inviting and peaceful with its benches, tall trees and landscape of flowers. A perfect spot for a plein air artist to capture the moment on canvas. But it doesn’t take long to discover that with a population of only two million compared to Hanoi’s four million and Saigon’s almost eight million, its traffic and pace is just as frenetic.

Cambodia Presidential Palace Complex

Cambodia Presidential Palace Complex (click to enlarge)

Inching our way through the tangle of vans, motorbikes and cyclo drivers, our guide takes us to the Royal Palace built by King Norodom in 1866. We remove our shoes and enter an ornate Khmer style building used to receive the world’s royalty and ambassadors on state business. Today, it is open to the public. Next to the palace is the official residence of King Sihamoni, Sihanouk’s son. Our guide emphasizes that the king is in residence (which means he is in country) because an official flag is raised. We were told that the elder Sihanouk, age 88, who is referred to as the god-king, is living in China and unofficially is in control of Cambodian politics.

Located adjacent to the Palace is the Silver Pagoda. It gets its name from the 5000
silver tiles covering the floor. Again, we remove our shoes and enter. The silver floor is
roped off from foot traffic. Absolutely no photography allowed, so we just file it in our
memory. In the center of the room is a tremendous standing solid gold Buddha draped in
saffron (orange) colored cloth. Other Buddhas in various positions are placed around the
room. The most common is the one sitting in the meditative or lotus position. Another
Buddha is sitting but has one hand pointed to the earth. It refers to the story of Buddha
(Siddharta Gautama) being tempted by the evil one Mara. Siddhartha tells Mara “as earth
is my witness”, I will not succumb to your temptations and he doesn’t.

Carving on Pagoda Door Frame

Carving on Pagoda Door Frame (click to enlarge)

Our guide does not want us to miss the Wat Phnom Temple located on a hill overlooking the tree-lined avenues. “According to legend, the first pagoda on this site was erected in 1373 to house four statues of Buddha deposited here by the waters of the Mekong River and discovered by Madam Penh. The main entrance to Wat Phnom is by the grand eastern staircase, which is guarded by lions and Naga (mythical serpent) balustrades.” Excerpt from Lonely Planet guide book.

After taking our shoes off and entering the temple we notice many Cambodians lighting incense and praying for their dead ancestors. It is a ritual practiced daily by devout Buddhas.

Outside, our guide, Mao Virak, shares with us his family’s story of living through the Khmer Roughe genocide.

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SE Asia ~ An Artist’s Palette by Lynne Mayhew

In three words I can describe SE Asia. It is an artist’s palette. A profusion of color, shapes, sizes and textures, found in and on the streets and allies of Hanoi, Saigon, Phnom Penn or the endless green paddies of rice ready to be harvested throughout the countryside of Vietnam, Cambodia, and Laos.

Halong Bay

Halong Bay (click to enlarge)

The palette becomes serene, yet surreal as we gently glide through the pristine waters of Halong Bay in a Chinese Junk, made of teak. We are mesmerized by the giant limestone karsts jutting out of the water. Lush, green tropical vegetation cling precariously to the grains of earth that have settled in its crags. Declared a United Nations World Heritage Site in 1994, more than 2000 islands dot the seascape with their wind-carved grottoes while some have caves or a sandy beach.   { read on….}

S E Asia ~ An Artist’s Palette by Lynne Mayhew
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Uncle Earl and the Kudzu Vine (part 3) by Lynne Mayhew

Finally, the experts were listening. By 1934, the U.S. Soil Conservation Service began encouraging southern farmers to plant kudzu as a soil preserving, nitrogen building ground cover. They placed a large order with Uncle Earl and Aunt Lillie who felt they would finally profit from their labors. However, their enterprise and hopes were dashed when they were required to put up a performance bond. They simply didn’t have the money to do so. They watched while others benefited from their thirty years of experimenting, cultivating, and promoting kudzu.

CE Pleas

CE Pleas

In 1948, Aunt Lillie died at the age of 87 and was buried next to her father in the Glenwood Cemetery in Chipley. Soon after, Uncle Earl age 81, took off for the Pacific Coast one last time to do what he loved most…collect specimens and commune with nature. He and Lillie were married 57 years. She had been his constant companion and supporter in all their endeavors.  Before he left, he sold Glen Arden to my grandparents, Blanche (Aunt Lillie’s niece) and Herbert Dickinson of Indianapolis, whose love of nature and horticulture helped them maintain Glen Arden as a plant nursery cultivating Uncle Earl’s lovely azaleas and camellias. When Uncle Earl could no longer travel because of health, he lived his final years at Glen Arden, cared for by the Dickinson’s.

As for kudzu, the government stopped advocating it in 1953. In that same year, Uncle Earl was recognized with a testimonial dinner and an engraved trophy for his conservation efforts in Barnesville, Ga. He was proud of his accomplishments with conservation and his only request was that his efforts be mentioned on his tombstone.  He died in 1955 and was laid to rest next to his beloved Lillie, the flower of his life, in Glenwood Cemetery.

It wasn’t until 1967 that his own community recognized him posthumously by erecting a historical marker in Chipley. The Washington County Historical Commission and the Florida Board of Parks & Historical Memorials joined in the placement of the marker on the grounds of the Agriculture Center.  Ironically three years later, in 1970, the Dept. of Agriculture classified kudzu as a weed.

Kudzu Developed Here

Kudzu Developed Here

This loving couple not only made horticultural contributions to Washington County but are remembered for their artistic talents of art and photography and bringing about a quality of life that ultimately enriched their neighbors’ lives. Any amount of time spent at Glen Arden leaves one with peace, serenity and an appreciation of the natural world.

Uncle Earl and the Kudzu Vine (part 1) ********** Uncle Earl and the Kudzu Vine (part 2)

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Uncle Earl and the Kudzu Vine (part 2) by Lynne Mayhew

Glen Arden

Glen Arden

Needing more land, Uncle Earl and Aunt Lillie purchased 35 acres just south of Chipley on SR277, the Vernon Highway.  Glen Arden was the name Aunt Lillie gave to their new homestead and nursery. It was a name taken from a book she read that suggests a peaceful garden or sanctuary. It was here where Lillie’s father found so much serenity. It was here where Uncle Earl would plant specimen’s collected from all over the country. It was here where they would end up cultivating kudzu.

They had a love affair with life and were great fair goers.  In 1893 they attended the Chicago World’s Fair known as the Columbian Expo, commemorating the 400th anniversary of Columbus. In 1904 they attended the St. Louis World’s Fair which celebrated the centennial of the Louisiana Purchase. Next was the Jamestown Expo in Norfolk, Va., 1907, commemorating the founding of the colony. In 1909, while Aunt Lillie stayed home, Uncle Earl attended the World Expo in San Francisco and visited relatives. Taking a month to get back home, he went on “field expeditions”, camping along the way, collecting plants, sketching them and bird watching. He and Aunt Lillie had a lifetime membership in the Audubon Society.

Chicago 1893 World's Fair

Chicago 1893 World's Fair

Their lifestyle often times was criticized by their contemporaries. Not having any children, they were free to travel and explore the world around them. Often times they marched to a different drum beat which was particularly true for their interest in kudzu. Kudzu was first introduced by the Japanese in 1876 at the Philadelphia Centennial Exposition as an ornamental. However, it was at the Chicago World’s Fair (1893) that Uncle Earl and Aunt Lillie first saw the plant. She thought its purple bloom and vine-like qualities would add beauty to her arbor at Glen Arden. It would be several years later before they acquired the plant.

The story is told that the plant not only took over the arbor but threatened to take over the house. Disgusted, Uncle Earl uprooted and threw it out by a fence line. It survived and the neighbor’s cows and goats reached through the fence and couldn’t get enough of it. Not wanting to cause any harm to the animals, Uncle Earl sent a sample to the U.S. Dept. of Agriculture for analysis. The results proved it high in protein, 18% compared to alfalfa at 14%. A botanist’s report said, “You might have trouble making livestock eat it.” Learning that kudzu was a legume, a member of the bean family, they discovered its nitrogen, soil building qualities. Their neighbors’ fields of cotton had robbed the soil of nitrogen and yearly droughts had turned acreage into eroded, barren land. Corn withered in the fields and produced little fodder for animals. Watching this happen, Uncle Earl and Aunt Lillie turned their efforts toward conservation and erosion control, a concept that was new and not well accepted by their fellow neighbors. It wasn’t practical and was a waste of time, they declared. Uncle Earl and Aunt Lillie were concerned about conserving ground water, top-soil and keeping a balance in the eco-system. Preserving forests and not overcutting in order to protect habitat for wildlife was also of importance. Protect it now for the future was not a concept widely accepted.

CE Pleas inquiry

CE Pleas inquiry

All of their energy and money went into the development of kudzu, a twenty year crusade. Advertising its virtues, Uncle Earl started a mail order business and inquiries about the plant came in from all over the country. The Post Office Department stopped them from shipping plants by mail in order to investigate the legitimacy of their literature. They claimed they were using the mails to defraud. No plant can grow this abundantly, they thought.  Charges were promptly dropped and apologies offered after they witnessed themselves kudzu’s growing capabilities. Uncle Earl could get eleven tons of hay from four cuttings in a summer. “You control it by cutting low or putting animals in the field” he said.

Uncle Earl and the Kudzu Vine (part 1) **********  Uncle Earl and the Kudzu Vine (part 3)

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Uncle Earl and the Kudzu Vine (part 1) by Lynne Mayhew

One doesn’t have to drive far along the interstates and back roads of the south to witness mounds of kudzu taking over banks, running up telephone poles and blanketing trees. While in Mississippi, recently, I noticed perfectly manicured yards bordered by kudzu. Down the road was a large sign stating, Kudzu Destruction Demonstration. I chuckled, thinking about the person who is responsible for the “vine that ate the south.”  He is my great-great uncle, Charles Earl (C.E.) Pleas, known to me as Uncle Earl. There is a Highway Marker outside the Agriculture extension office in Chipley, FL that pays tribute to the Pleases development of kudzu. Other than a few family stories I had heard as a child and only meeting him once at the age of eight, I wanted to uncover who my great-great Uncle Earl was. I wanted to know his story and especially his connection to kudzu.

CE & Lillie Pleas

CE & Lillie Pleas

At the turn of the Twentieth Century, Uncle Earl and his new wife, Lillie Conley Pleas, moved from Indiana to Chipley, a small frontier town founded in 1882 located in Florida’s Panhandle. This Quaker, educated couple brought with them talents little known and understood. Both were naturalists and collectors of specimens from their many trips, be it a rock from Colorado or a pine cone from the California Sequoias. Aunt Lillie was a taxidermist and had an extensive insect collection. It was their joint interest in “bugs” that began their romantic courtship. She was a talented artist, using oils to depict scenes from nature. Some of her artwork today is still displayed in the Washington County Hospital and owned by private collectors. Uncle Earl was a horticulturist and took up photography, setting up a small studio in town. When not at the studio, he was in the woods photographing plants, flowers and mushrooms.

But one can’t live off of art, photography and taxidermy alone, thus they raised and grew their own fruit, grains and vegetables on a four-acre garden patch on the edge of town. What they didn’t need themselves, they sold to others. Putting up over 1800 items yearly, they canned, dried, pickled and preserved, exhibiting their efforts at the Fair at DeFuniak Springs and the Florida State Fair at Tampa. Care and pride in their work earned them hundreds of blue ribbons and recognition. Aunt Lillie was also known for her flowers. She grew them, sold them and dried them. She became recognized for her artistic flower arrangements and shared her talent with others. Uncle Earl photographed her unique floral designs and made post cards. Often times she would preserve the flowers themselves and would use them for still life art subjects.

No wonder they loved nature. Uncle Earl was raised on a farm and plant nursery. He accompanied his father on his daily walks, collecting this and collecting that, learning their botanical names and classification system. Another influence was Aunt Lillie’s father, John J. Conley who was a charter member of the Wayne County (Ind.) Horticultural Society and erected the first greenhouse. He moved to Chipley in 1904 to live with Lillie and Earl until his death in 1907 at the age of 95. From his diary, I read his thoughts on living in Chipley: “A change of seven hundred miles toward the tropics is a great one for a man who has spent all his years where the summers are short and the winters long and barren. But to be able to spend my declining years in the  “land of  flowers” in the loving care of my daughter, Lillie, and her husband, where I can again work among the flowers and trees every day in the year is, indeed, like turning winter of old age into continual spring.”

Uncle Earl and the Kudzu Vine (part 2) ********** Uncle Earl and the Kudzu Vine (part 3)

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