The Awesome Gamelan Music of Bali

Gamelan Orchestra

The making of the gamelan is typically a family affair, the skills having been handed down from generation to generation. The bronze castings are done only on auspicious days as determined by the temple priest, thus insuring the richest, purest tones. Wood craftsmen make the elaborately carved frames usually of jackfruit wood.The set of instruments are built and intended to stay together as an ensemble. Most communities in Bali have a gamelan which belongs to the community as a whole and is often housed and played in the balai banjar, a community meeting hall with open walls that allows the music to flow out into the community where everyone can enjoy it.

“The melody unrolled like some ancient chant, grave and metallic, while around it there wove an endless counterpoint of tones from the little gongs in front. From time to time, above the drums there floated the soft, reverberating tone of a great gong, deep, penetrating, seeming to fill the temple with faintly echoing sound.”

A House in Bali by Colin McPhee

The gamelan has become a fundamental part of the performing arts in Bali. Almost all religious rituals include gamelan performance and there are tens of thousands of religious ceremonies and festivals held at the hundreds of temples throughout the island. Certain compositions are believed to possess magic powers, and can be used to ward off evil spirits.

Dance is a very ancient tradition that is part of artistic and religious expression. The dancers  movements are closelyTraditional Balinese Dance associated with the rhythms produced by the gamelan. Many village temples feature a special performance of a dance-drama, a battle between the mythical characters Rangda, the witch representing evil, and Barong, the lion or dragon, representing good. The costumes are always elaborate and the movements in the face, eyes, hands, arms, hips, and feet are coordinated to reflect layers of gamelan’s percussive sounds.

The shadow puppets, or Wayang, of Bali, may be the most prominent Balinese theatrical expression. They communicate Bali’s history, religious and spiritual teachings, poetry, and philosophy. The puppets represent demigods, demons, magic men, and romantic lovers. Many different stories have been passed down through the generations by the puppet masters ranging from high drama, improvisation and slapstick comedy. The puppet theater performances are also accompanied by gamelan music, usually of the gender wayang style.

 

Balinese Shadow PuppetsThe jarring, jangly, pulsating music of the gamelan was one of the highlights of our recent Bali visit. Sitting on our veranda our first night in Ubud, hearing, the the music of a gamelan performance waifing across the rice paddies is one of my most vivid memories. I had to know more.The intertwining of Bali’s music traditions into their culture is fascinating.

”The Gamelan Music of Bali” is a photo gallery of gamelan performances at temple festivals, a dance performance and several images of gamelan being made.

For more Bali photo galleries: “Bali – Land of Spirits” and “Bali’s Rice Culture.”

Visit On the Go With Lynne for more on Bali and other great travel writing.

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Bali Gamelan Gong


Posted in Bali, Music, Religion, Rice, Travel Tagged , , , , , , |

A Mother’s Day Tribute

LynneMy favorite writer – and oh yes, my childhood sweetheart, and wife of 48 years, and mother of our two children – has just publishedTo the Mothers of the World ~ I Pay You Tribute” on her web site. She honors the mothers of the world. Regardless of differences in language or culture, a mother’s love for her children, regardless of their age, is universal. Thank God.

Women to women
Worlds Apart
We are the same but different

Different culture
Different religion
Different education
Different language

But the same within
Same search for justice
Same search for dignity
Same belief in family values
Same journey to personal fulfillment

Be sure to check out On the Go With Lynne for more great (though I am definitely prejudice) travel writing.

Posted in Lynne Mayhew, Moms, Nostalgia, Travel Tagged , , , |

Bali ~ Land of Spirits, Music and Rice: Part 1


Get away from the glitz and glitter of the beach resorts and the crush of shoppers in Ubud and you will discover a place like no other. There, Balinese Hinduism along with the ancient Gamelan music and the cultivation of rice are all intertwined to create a land of culture and tradition. Let me try and explain.

 

Bali is but a tiny part of Indonesia, a 3,000 mile long string of over 17,000 islands that straddle the equator in the eastern Pacific Ocean. The island of Bali is near the middle of the chain, just east of Java and south of the equator. The island is unique. While Indonesia’s 240 million people are 88% Muslim, Bali’s 3.5 million residents are 93%Hindu.

Land of Spirits

Bali ~ Land of Spirits  It is difficult to get away from religion in Bali. Temples are everywhere. Each village is required to have at least three temples. Every family compound has at least one temple or shrine and still more shrines dot rice fields and roadsides. Gamelan music is ubiquitous to Bali – it is a mandated part of the tens of thousands of religious ceremonies held throughout the island each year. Rice, the staple food of Bali, and its culture is of utmost importance in the cycle of life, thus is woven into their religious beliefs. So much so that the Balinese worship and build temples honoring Dewi Sri the goddess of rice and Dewi Danu the goddess of water.

Hinduism made its way to Bali in the eleventh century from India by way of Java and was simply commingled with the existing strong religious beliefs already in existence. Thus, Balinese Hinduism has little semblance to traditional Hinduism. Like Indian Hindus the Balinese worship the same trinity of gods – Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu. Additionally, they believe in Sanghyong Widi, their supreme god. But, unlike in India, icons of the trinity are never seen. The temple thrones and shrines are empty.

Why? The Balinese Hindus are animistic. They believe spirits are everywhere. The good spirits dwell in the mountains and the evil spirits haunt the deserted beaches and forests. Demons and giant creatures inhabit the sea. Living between the forces of good and evil, the people must strike a balance and keep peace. This is accomplished by making daily offerings to pay homage to the good spirits and to placate the evil spirits.

Finding the Photographer Amusing

Finding the Photographer Amusing

On a recent visit to Bali, we had the opportunity to visit at least six temples including Pura Agung Gunung Raung in the ancient village of Taro in the north central part of the island. The faithful were in the midst of a once in five year celebration. While we were welcome to visit, not being Balinese meant our guide first had to get permission from the priest. Then, of course, we had to be properly attired. Sarongs and sashes for the women and the same for me; plus, I had to wear the traditional head cloth, called an udeng. In spite of my rather outlandish appearance, and that non Balinese were an uncommon sight in Taro, we were welcomed, though I suspect primarily because I was a source of amusement.

Inside the temple grounds, many women were gathered in the shade busily weaving offering trays from palm fronds while catching up on local gossip. Others were making offerings to the spirits and receiving blessings from the priests. All the while, the gamelan ensemble was tuning up for the afternoon’s performances.

Later, while visiting Pura Goa Lawah, one of Bali’s nine directional temples, we witnessed a part of the very elaborate funeral rites. Several hundred loved ones of the recently departed gathered on the beach in front of the temple. Ashes of the departed along with many offerings are scattered into the sea as a purification of the newly released soul. Cremation and the subsequent complex funeral ceremony is the only means to ensure that the spirit may be released from its mortal remains so it can be reincarnated.

A photo gallery of  ”Bali ~ Land of Spirits” includes some of my favorite images of Bali’s temples.

In future posts I will write and share images about the Gamelan instruments and music as well as the Culture of Rice.

Visit On the Go With Lynne for more on Bali and other great travel writing.

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Land of Spirits

 

Posted in Bali, Religion, Rice, Tropical Tagged , , , , |

Free Background Wallpaper ~ Serengeti Acacia

Serengeti-Acacia

 

This month’s free wallpaper is one of my favorite images – a beautiful acacia tree on a knoll overlooking the Serengeti Plain. Enjoy

 

Just click on the one that best represents the size of your monitor. If in doubt, click on the largest size.

For Tablets (1280×800)

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Posted in Africa, Tanzania, Trees, Wallpaper Tagged , , , |

Free Background Wallpaper from Halong Bay, Vietnam

Halong Bay, Vietnam

I have made a desktop background (wallpaper) of one of my recent photographs of Halong Bay, Vietnam, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and truly one of the most beautiful places on earth. Halong Bay, situated in the Gulf of Tonkin, includes some 1600 islands and islets forming a spectacular seascape of limestone pillars. Because of their precipitous nature, most of the islands are uninhabited and relatively unaffected by human influence.  I hope you enjoy this month’s background image. Just click on the one that best represents the size of your monitor. If in doubt, click on the largest size.

For Tablets (1280×800)

Older Monitors (1600×900)

Widescreen Monitors (1920×1080)

Need help changing your wallpaper? Here’s instructions for iOSAndroidMac OS XWindows, and Ubuntu.

 


Posted in Halong Bay, Travel, Vietnam, Wallpaper Tagged , , , |

The Kushti Wrestlers of Calcutta, India

Kushti WrestlersCalcutta never ceases to amaze. Five loincloth clad men are gathered under a neem tree tucked away in a corner of the Malik Ghat on the banks of the River Hooghly near the Howarh Bridge. They are Kushti devotees. Kushti, or Pehlwani, is an ancient form of wrestling begun in the Mughal era, dating back to the sixteenth century, in the Indian sub-continent and south central Asia.

The wrestlers begin their session by smoothing the dirt pit they practice in, and rub their bodies with the soil and neem leaves and offer a prayer to their patron deity. The training is meant to build strength as well as muscle bulk and flexibility. Often the wrestlers use each other’s body weight to add resistance to the exercise. After a period of time, some of the men will spar, practicing holds and throwing one another. At the conclusion of their workout, the five sit cross legged with hands turned out and chant for several minutes.

Kushti,similar to martial arts, requires much discipline. Alcohol, tobacco, and pann, a mixture of the areca nut and lime wrapped in a betel leaf, are strongly discouraged. Milk, ghee, and almonds form the holy trinity of a Kushti’s diet which can be supplemented with certain fruits.

My gallery of images of The Kushti Wrestlers of Calcutta depicts this ancient custom. Also included is a soundtrack I recorded of their chants.

The wrestlers are just one facet of daily life at the Malik Ghat. The River Hooghly is the branch of the Ganges that runs through Calcutta, now officially called Kolkata. As such, it is sacred to Hindus. Many are there to bathe in its water and to pay homage to their ancestors and gods by cupping their hands, lifting the river’s water and letting it fall back. Others are there simply to take a bath and wash their clothes.

The largest wholesale flower market is located adjacent to the ghat.

But these are stories for another day.

For more great travel writing be sure to visit On the Go with Lynne.

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Posted in Calcutta, India, Kolkata, Travel Tagged , , , |

Calcutta’s South Park Street Cemetery

It’s monsoon season again, in Calcutta, the latter part of the eighteenth century. Life is anything but easy. The River Hooghly is past flood stage and water is standing everywhere, a repository for human waste, animal carcases, and anything else that is not securely anchored. Malaria, chorea, and dysentery are rampant. Life expectancy is barely thirty years and infant mortality is unspeakable. Between 1770 and 1773, about 10 million people die of famine in Bengal – 1/3 of the population.

In “White Mughals: Love and Betrayal in Eighteenth-Century India,” William Dalrymple writes:

S. Park Street Cemetery, Calcutta      “…two monsoons was the average life span of a European in Bengal. In one year out of a total European population of 1200, over a third died between August and the   end of December.”

Thus, the South Park Street Cemetery, which opened in 1767,  became the final resting place for many of the men and women of the British East India Company and the early days of the British Raj (British Rule.) They are soldiers, sailors, their wives, and young women searching for husbands. They are traders and travelers seeking their fortune and escape from Victorian England. In those days death was an occupational hazard for the foreign community.

Today the cemetery, surrounded by its high wall, is an oasis of calm and quiet amongst the constant drone of India’s third largest city. It is an open air museum, and one of the world’s unique cemeteries. The graves are huge S. Park Street Cemetery, Calcuttastructures mostly in the shape of obelisks (tall narrow tapering structures.) Others are pyramids, urns or pavilions. It seems that even in death the occupants were imitating the grandeur of the British Raj by competing for the distinction of having the largest or most intricately decorated grave.

Rudyard Kipling, in “City of Dreadful Night,” sarcastically has this to says about the graveyard:

“The tombs are small houses. It is as though we walked down the streets of a town, so tall are they and so closely do they stand – a town shrivelled by fire, and scarred by frost and siege. Men must have been afraid of their friends rising up before the due time that they weighted them with such cruel mounds of masonry.”

A few caretakers appear to live on the premises, but seem to be occupied with gathering firewood and looking after their families’ needs rather than taking care of the graveyard. A few short years ago the grounds were home to hundreds of families who had nowhere else to live. Now it is all but deserted.

S. Park Street Cemetery, Calcutta

The cemetery was a highlight of my Calcutta visit. While it is a look into the city’s early history and grandeur, it is in itself, crumbling and decaying like much of Calcutta. As I wandered among the tombs alone, I wanted to know more about Charles “Hindoo” Stuart, Captain Dennis Bodkin, Elizabeth Barwell, Lieutenant-General Sir John Clavering, Major George Dowlie, Thomas Cotterell, Capt. W Mackay,  Harriet Chicheley Plowden, and Frances Sophia, infant daughter of Lane and Margaret Magnaic. I found it difficult to imagine what their lives in Calcutta were like. The bravery, hardship, and heartbreak is unimaginable. The voyage alone from England would often take seven months, if the ship arrived at all. And we call ourselves travelers as we hop on a planes and fly to the other side of the world in less than a day and complain about the inconveniences we face.

This then, is my introduction to a gallery of images I made of the South Park Street Cemetery. Comments are welcome.

For more great travel writing be sure to visit On the Go with Lynne.

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Posted in Calcutta, Cemeteries, Kolkata, Travel Tagged , , , , |

POD ~ Outdoor Kitchen at a Laotian Buddhist Monestary

Small Buddhist Monestary near Laung Prabang, LaosWhile wandering along a path that followed the Mekong River on the bank opposite Luang Prabang in Laos, we came upon a small Buddhist Monestary.  Being mid-afternoon, the only sounds were the birds and insects. The Monks were resting. Their day begins early, around 4am, as they meditate in preparation for their alms walk. While quietly meandering around the various buildings in the monastery we came upon their outdoor kitchen at the back of the their living quarters. Just the basics. A small propane stove, woven rice bowls for their sticky rice, a few cooking pots and some bananas.

For some great travel writing check out On the Go with Lynne

There is more on Laos here.

Posted in Asia, Laos, Luang Prabang, Travel Tagged , , , |

Free Background Wallpaper from Cat Island, Bahamas

 

 

Beautiful Beach Cat Island, BahamasI have made some desktop backgrounds (wallpaper) of one of my recent photographs of some of the most beautiful beaches in the world – Cat Island, Bahamas. Thought you might enjoy this lush tropical image to help counter the dreary, sunless winter days many of us in the Northern Hemisphere are experiencing.  Just click on the one that best represents the size of your monitor. If in doubt, click on the largest size.

For Tablets (1280×800)

Older Monitors (1600×900)

Widescreen Monitors (1920×1080)

Need help changing your wallpaper? Here’s instructions for iOSAndroidMac OS XWindows, and Ubuntu.

 

 

Thanks for reading and please check back often. More backgrounds are coming.

 

Posted in Bahamas, Beach, Wallpaper Tagged , , , , |

Flying Fish

c59-Mullet Toss-3.jpgc6-Mullet Toss-2.jpgc84-Mullet Toss-1.jpg
For over twenty years now, sometime during the month of February, a very strange phenom occurs in the skies over Matlacha, a “funky little drinking village with a fishing problem,” located between Pine Island and the mainland along the coast of Southwest Florida: Flying Fish, or more specifically, tossed mullet. Why, you may ask?

Because it is time for the annual Mullet Tossing Championship sponsored by the Matlacha Mariners, a non profit group of men raising funds for local charities with several events each year.

Useful information about the event from the Matlacha Mariners web site:

 

The 21st Annual “Southwest Florida Mullet Toss Championship”

 

WHAT IS A MULLET?

A mullet is one of the more popular and plentiful fish indigenous to our area.

It is the only fish with a gizzard and is said to possess mystical properties.

It is also an excellent food source low in fat and high in protein.

WHAT IS A MULLET TOSS?

A Mullet Toss consists of individuals throwing a mullet from a marked foul line down a corridor.

Assuring themselves of a New World Record.

It’s also a great excuse for us all to have a local party with lots of fun for everyone.

    WHY TOSS A MULLET?

It began when local folks were looking for another way to amuse themselves as

northern visitors left the little barrier island heading home again.

Besides the amusement factor, proceeds from the flying fish often go to help

individual (s), groups or other non profit organizations in need of short term financial help.


ARE THE MULLET ALIVE?

No

WHAT HAPPENS TO MULLET AFTER THE MULLET TOSS?

They go into crab traps to continue nature’s cycle.

HOW MANY PEOPLE USUALLY COME TO THE MULLET TOSS?

Several Hundred.

WHAT ARE THE RULES FOR TOSSING A MULLET?

Contestants will toss a mullet (approximately 1 lb+)


NO Gloves Allowed and You Cannot Break The Mullet in Half.

Your mullet must be thrown from anywhere behind and up to the foul line, down a designated path.

No stepping over the line during your throw and follow through or your toss may be disqualified.

Throwing your mullet out of bounds may also result in a disqualification.


All measurement results are final and under the discretion of The Matlacha Mariner’s operating officials.


Great images of the 2012 Mullet Toss are here along with lots more pictures from around Pine Island. Click here for Pine Island blog posts.

Related Posts with Thumbnails
Posted in Fish, Matlacha Mariners, Pine Island Tagged , , , |